The bullshot is a classic mid-century cocktail but gained a
certain popularity in the 1980s. For some reason I picture Tom Cruise ordering
it in a bar. As a cocktail it’s pleasantly savory but strange enough that you
won’t want to sip too much. As a jello it replicates the smooth creaminess of
roasted marrow without being quite as unctuous. Scooped onto the shortbread
with a dab of the lemon, it’s a marvel.
3 four-Inch
sawed marrow bone tubes
1 tsp
powdered gelatin
¾ c vodka
¾ c home-made
beef stock (see recipe)
1 cup flour
or more
1 tsp crushed
fennel seed
½ tsp salt
¼ tsp sugar
1 pickled
meyer lemon*
Briefly blanch the bones in boiling water. Remove from water
and push out the interior marrow fat with a small knife into a small pot.
Simmer the fat on very low heat until melted. Boil the hollow bones about 15
minutes to clean and scrape off any connective tissue on the exterior. Strain the
melted fat though a small sieve and reserve.
Carve down three champagne corks to plug the bottom hole of
the bones and so each will stand upright. Be sure they are very tight or they
will leak. If you have doubts, dribble a little hot candle wax into the bottom
of each. Then dissolve the gelatin in the vodka for 10 minutes and bring the
stock to the boil. I have deliberately used very little gelatin to keep the
final jello soft. Mix the two liquids. Arrange the bones upright in a container
so they don’t spill and pour in the hot gelatin, move to the refrigerator until
set.
Mix the flour, marrow fat, fennel and salt into a short
crust pastry with just enough cold water to bring everything together. Roll out
½ inch thick onto a square of parchment paper and cut into long rectangles. Back
about 15 minutes at 350 degrees. Watch carefully so they don’t burn. Remove from
the oven and let cool.
Arrange everything on a wooden board and naturally increase
the recipe if you are serving guests.
*Pickled lemons are very easy to make but take a long time.
Cut the unwaxed lemons into rounds, and arrange in a jar sprinkling salt on
each layer. Cover with lemon juice and make sure everything is submerged. Cover
and wait one year. The lemons will be soft and exquisitely perfumed as a
condiment. You can add any spices you like. Eat them peel and all.
5 comments:
Ken, you are a creative genius; this is a culinary triumph.
I've ordered a bullshot a couple of times, both a bit disappointing. The bullshot was the favorite drink of Sir Noel Coward, and there is a fun scene in that big BBC documentary on The Master where one of his favorite bartenders recreates the recipe, pouring out a classic bullshot on camera. As "cocktail porn" it's worth trying to hunt down. (The whole docu is fascinating, of course.)
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