Sunday, November 26, 2017

Ham-Bushi or David Chang's Pork Katsuobushi Revisited



So while in Japan discovering katsuobushi, I thought, why don't people do this with pork. Of course David Chang beat me to it. But then I went and read the article (easily found online) and thought, why did they start the mold immediately? And why use koji mold? I thought it would work much better with a kind of ham. So I got two pork loins, cured with salt. sugar, instacure #1, sage and pepper, for a week in the fridge. Then cold smoked about 3 hours over oak. Then dehydrated a full week in an electric dehydrator. Shaved on the kezuriki and dropped into water at the boiling point, removed from the heat, for 5 minutes, with kombu. The result is amazingly like dashi, with the same huge mouthfeel and aftertaste. Smoky, but beautifully clear. I may just have to write a paper about this one! Maybe serve with pulled noodles, greens and a pork meatball I think.

Monday, November 20, 2017

Homemade Katsuobushi

Heart
4 Pieces from each fish

Thursday, September 14, 2017

Pulled Cuttlefish Ink Noodle

I don't think I've ever heard of anyone making a pulled noodle with cuttlefish ink, but it worked nicely. Bread flour, one egg, two small packets of cuttlefish ink and water to make a stiff dough. Kneaded half an hour or so, rolled out, oiled and cut into thick strips, rested for 5 hours. Then pulled and as you can see stuck to the counter top on the ends so they didn't spring back. Normally I throw them right in the water, but I wanted to dry these. I think they're stunning.

So how to cook them? I think in a roasting pan, they're about 6 feet long! Then maybe serve in dashi stock with mentaiko. We'll see.

Monday, July 17, 2017

WALK WITH WINE

Since the end of April I have been walking. With a sippy cup of wine. Sometimes to work, sometimes on the treadmill, and sometimes in exciting places. This was last week on the Pacific Coast. The idea is to get some exercise without destroying my knees, and without cutting into my prime drinking time. The wine should match the walk of course. So the Russian River provided wines for this walk. Today around the park was some Concannon Rose I got in Livermore on Friday. Sometimes it will have to be a negroni or G@T. I'm not strict about the beverage. The time is usually divided among a morning walk to work, another walk back, then late afternoon walking with wine. I think I could get a book out of this. What do you think? Some places recently have included Oxford, Topanga Canyon in L.A., Valpolicella and Umbria. It sure is fun. And hopefully losing some of the pounds I put on eating noodles every morning for breakfast for three years! I'm today at 800 miles, which is about 10 miles a day. At 3-3.5 mph that's about 3 hours. I wont be able to keep that up once school starts again, but we'll try.

Sunday, May 7, 2017

Grass Fed Beef Heart or Involtini di Cuore

This beautiful grass fed beef heart was split and butterflied, all the external fat and internal sinews removed, seasoned with smoked salt, aleppo pepper, oregano, tangerine peel and juice and then tied tightly. Then seared in olive oil, braised for 3 hours in pinot noir.

Thanks to my friends at Hester Ranch, for whom I'm developing a full recipe now.

Tuesday, April 25, 2017

You have to try this dish! It's a cup of 00 Flour and an egg, kneaded for about half an hour, rested for 2 hours, rolled out and cut on a chitarra. Boiled a minute, then gently sauteed in Irish Butter, Red Boat Fish Sauce, 1/2 lime, Cilantro, Sriracha and some Urfa Chili. Perfect chewy, salty, spicy and unctuous. I could eat this every day.