Monday, January 30, 2017
Nettle Noodles, Almond Milk, Enoki Mushrooms, Chicken Balls, Finger Limes and Sumac
It was partly finding these ingredients at the Palo Alto Farmer's Market, but also because I've had almond milk on the mind since doing some medieval recipes with a class at Stanford the other day. You have to use raw almonds of course, soak them over night, remove the skins and then pound with boiling water and strain out the solids. It's so good. The nettles were blanched in boiling water, dehydrated, ground and then mixed with flour and egg into a noodle. The finger limes were left over from the Fancy Food Show last week. They all came together so nicely, with a nod to the Tria Genovese recipe in the Anomimo Toscano (late 14th c.)
Tuesday, January 10, 2017
Italian Food History and Cooking Workshop
May 16-21, 2017 At the Villa Serenella,
San Pietro in Cariano just outside Verona
Set in a
magnificent Palladian Villa a few kilometers outside Verona, this workshop
covers the food and culture of Italy from ancient times to the 20th century with
lectures, readings, hands on cooking, single or double occupancy rooms, and
historic meals at the villa, all included. Lessons will focus on Italian
cookbooks such as Apicus, Platina, Scappi, Corrado,
Artusi, and Marinetti, from which we will cook directly, all in translation.
The workshop will be run by Ken Albala and Demet Guzey. Ken is professor of history and chair of food studies at the University of the Pacific, with 24 books in print, and his food history course on DVD from the Great Courses company. Demet is a writer and lecturer of food and culture holding a PhD in Food Science and a Level 2 WSET wine and spirit certificate. She lives in Verona.
The workshop will be run by Ken Albala and Demet Guzey. Ken is professor of history and chair of food studies at the University of the Pacific, with 24 books in print, and his food history course on DVD from the Great Courses company. Demet is a writer and lecturer of food and culture holding a PhD in Food Science and a Level 2 WSET wine and spirit certificate. She lives in Verona.
This villa
suburbana dates from the 17th century and we will be cooking in its
historic kitchen and eating meals in the dining room and working in the living
room. It is situated between the ancient city of Verona with its splendid Roman
amphitheater, Juliet’s balcony, brick Renaissance castle and the Lake Garda
region. Fly into Milan or Venice and take the train into Verona, we are about
12 km to the northwest.
We will also
visit local wineries and Demet will lead us on formal wine tastings.
Cost for the workshop is €1,638 ($1,719) for shared
occupancy and €1,950 ($2,048) for single occupancy. This includes all workshop
sessions, all accommodations for 5 nights, 5 breakfasts, 5 dinners including
two at traditional local restaurants, 5 lunches, wine tasting fees and Verona
card which allows you access to all museums and churches of Verona.
Workshop cost will not include airfare or
transportation to or from the venue or insurance. The fees will be charged at
the time of signing up. Cancellations will be fully refunded until 60 days
before the workshop and 50% after 30 days before the start date. After this
date no refund will be possible.
Wednesday, December 14, 2016
Pickled Meyer Lemon Powder
I've been wanting to do this a long time. Last year I had a crop of tiny meyer lemons and I wanted to see if could pickle them whole, in brine. There are no spices, just salt and bay leaves. After a whole year they came out delicious. I had one chopped alongside a pork chop. Tart and salty.
I sliced the rest of the jar, removed the seeds and put them in the dehydrator on high, overnight and this is what they looked like in the morning.
The slices went into the coffee grinder and out came this cheery yellow powder. I'm going to see what a touch will do inside a noodle, but there are so many other possibilities. Imagine this on shaved ice, or sprinkled over a salad. Or even on a steak. I suppose anywhere you want lemon and salt plus the added kick of the pickling and aroma of the rind, which is sweet and not acrid at all after a year in brine.
I suppose I ought to patent this!
I sliced the rest of the jar, removed the seeds and put them in the dehydrator on high, overnight and this is what they looked like in the morning.
The slices went into the coffee grinder and out came this cheery yellow powder. I'm going to see what a touch will do inside a noodle, but there are so many other possibilities. Imagine this on shaved ice, or sprinkled over a salad. Or even on a steak. I suppose anywhere you want lemon and salt plus the added kick of the pickling and aroma of the rind, which is sweet and not acrid at all after a year in brine.
I suppose I ought to patent this!
Sunday, November 27, 2016
Thanksgiving Leftovers Noodle Soup
Thanksgiving Leftovers made with Pho Stock, Egg Noodles, Raw Celery, Carrots and Peas, Some Steamed Bok Choy, Nuoc Cham (shallots, lime, fish sauce and chilies) and shredded Turkey. A Sprinkle of grated orange rind and crushed cloves kept it bright and right for the holidays.
The difficulty is making the stock not taste like drinking gravy, so the raw vegetables really help with that. Crunch and chewy and savory in every bite. The Stock contains star anise, black cardamom, cassia, and odds and ends like cilantro stalks and mushroom stems from the freezer and even a parmesan rind!
The difficulty is making the stock not taste like drinking gravy, so the raw vegetables really help with that. Crunch and chewy and savory in every bite. The Stock contains star anise, black cardamom, cassia, and odds and ends like cilantro stalks and mushroom stems from the freezer and even a parmesan rind!
Tuesday, September 27, 2016
Friday, September 16, 2016
Penghui for Noodles
I've been experimenting with an odd alkaline substance this past week. It goes into a lamian noodle, apparently used often in China though fairly impossible to find in the US. It's called penghui and as far as I can tell is ash, processed in some fantastic way, made from mugwort, which is an Artemesia species. The first time I made a solution and rubbed it onto a well worked and rested wheat flour dough. It was made from King Arthur Bread Flour. Not much happened and it didn't behave differently from the batch not rubbed with the solution.
But today I made a batch with 1/16 of a tsp of this white powder directly into a cup of flour and water. Worked for 15 minutes, left over night and then cut and worked into noodles this morning. It was very stretchy. A few strands broke so I couldn't get it into one super long noodle to wrap around my hands many times and stretch, but it made a pretty decent pulled lamian all the same.
My only complaint is that the cooked noodles above tasted a little chalky like Bayer aspirin. Maybe a hint of sulfur too. I rinsed in cold water for a while.
Then they went into a lamb stock with kale. Actually really chewy, and a great noodle. But I noticed afterwards a slimy texture in my mouth and a little lye-burn on my tongue and palate. It's still a little burnt a full 12 hours later. So I do not recommend putting this in the dough.
I'm going to try a diluted solution and working it into the kneaded and rested dough, maybe a little more of it, not just splashed on, will work without tasting weird.
But today I made a batch with 1/16 of a tsp of this white powder directly into a cup of flour and water. Worked for 15 minutes, left over night and then cut and worked into noodles this morning. It was very stretchy. A few strands broke so I couldn't get it into one super long noodle to wrap around my hands many times and stretch, but it made a pretty decent pulled lamian all the same.
My only complaint is that the cooked noodles above tasted a little chalky like Bayer aspirin. Maybe a hint of sulfur too. I rinsed in cold water for a while.
Then they went into a lamb stock with kale. Actually really chewy, and a great noodle. But I noticed afterwards a slimy texture in my mouth and a little lye-burn on my tongue and palate. It's still a little burnt a full 12 hours later. So I do not recommend putting this in the dough.
I'm going to try a diluted solution and working it into the kneaded and rested dough, maybe a little more of it, not just splashed on, will work without tasting weird.
Sunday, August 21, 2016
Mushroom Noodle Cubed
1 lb mixed
mushrooms (enoki, maitake, porcini, shi’itake)
1 tbs butter
or oil
½ tsp salt
3 c water
1 c white
wine
½ c porcini
powder
½ c all
purpose flour
1 egg
3 slices of
portabello mushroom
1 tsp butter
½ c milk
Dill
Sour cream
Sautee mushrooms in butter or olive oil with salt. Let them
brown. Put over water and wine, simmer for 30 minutes. Strain and put the
mushroom solids in a sturdy cloth and squeeze out all the liquid. Discard
solids. Combine porcini powder with flour and egg. Knead into a smooth ball and
lightly oil. Roll out into a very thin sheet (without extra flour) and cut by
hand into extra thin noodles. Let these dry slightly on a wooden board. Sautee
three slices of portabello mushrooms in butter, salt lightly. Heat the mushroom
stock and add milk. Add the noodles. When cooked through arrange in a bowl with
the mushroom slices, a sprig of dill and a dollop of sour cream.
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